Niche in the News
Jun 25, 2008 St. Louis, missouri, restaurants
Illinois Times review of Niche from June 12, 2008.
…a riff on a Reuben: rye gnocchi with pickled mustard seeds, horseradish, and house-corned meat. In less skilled hands this could have been a disaster – heavy gnocchi, overpowering condiments – but this was fabulous: light pillows with a distinctive rye taste and perfectly balanced flavors. Something familiar was transformed into something completely new.
Tags: Illinois Times, Niche
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July 9th, 2008 at 1:33 pm
I have no doubt that the rye gnocchi at Niche was fabulous, however completely new and original it was not. Harvest Restaurant did that about 3 months ago as thier take on an old school, South St Louis favorite, the brain sandwich. They had rye gnocchi served with a carraway slaw, sweetbreads and I think some kind of lemon aioli. It was delicious and creative. So again, while Niche may have been great, it was not “something completely new”. I have been going to Harvest for many years now and I often see many ideas of thiers copied elsewhere at other fine establishments a few months later and the other place getting credit. I just wanted to speak up and give credit where credit is due.
July 10th, 2008 at 9:34 am
Kam…first of all I like Steve Gontram a lot. I worked for him for about a year and have nothing but good things to say about my time at his restaurant. He was a great chef, and an incredibly generous boss.
That said, if we want to get super technical we need only look to Ideas in Food in February 2007 for the inspiration to both St. Louis dishes.
http://www.ideasinfood.com/ideas_in_food/2007/02/pumpernickel_gn.html
Hell, even “Steve’s Caesar salad” which everyone loves dearly is really “Brad’s (Bradley Ogden) Caesar salad” whom Steve worked for in San Francisco. That doesn’t make it any less delicious though.
July 14th, 2008 at 10:35 am
It is not that I believe that anything can truly be original anymore, unless you happen to be Ferran Adria, but I have to disagree. Our dish… rye gnocchi, horseradish jus, corned pigs tongue, pickled mustard seed and arugula. The only thing that was the same was the rye gnocchi. Does this mean that since I have rib eye on my menu that I must be stealing ideas from Flemmings? For the record I have never been to either Harvest or Flemmings.
July 14th, 2008 at 1:56 pm
Weather you view this thing we do as a craft or art form…this “thing” we do is personal. each day, each ingredient, each staff member, each guest, each plate, each idea is a part of us. The thought that food ideas just happen to come to those who craft food is unreasonable. If, while enjoying my day(s) off happen to thumb through a well published cookbook, read one of my favorite food magezines, glance through some wonderful food photography or god forbid watch the food network and happen to become inspired by some nugget of food weather its a micro or macro nuggets it does not matter..I am a cheat if I use this inspiration for a “special” during the next evening service?
I have enjoyed brioche pudding, roasted mussels, lobster mac and cheese, fried pigs head, lardo flatbread, roasted beets, roasted chicken and most of all the tollhouse cookie pie…everyone please rise and join me in congratulating mothers and housewives everywhere for tollhouse cookies and even the pie! Come on this business of food has been around for centuries and will continue to be around as long as people enjoy food..My point enjoy the damn food. If you want to give credit – then thank the classics (the list is long and distinguished), james beard, julia child and chris desens! Thank those people who have brought chefs like gerard, steve, kevin, josh, matt, deb to st.louis. Enjoy the moment and enjoy the fact that its finally here in our backyard!
July 14th, 2008 at 3:08 pm
Chuck- Well played, sir.
I have to completely agree. I could care less if it’s something that’s completely original (which I remember from Bible school that there’s “Nothing new under the sun”) or not. This dish was absolutely amazing. Kudos to all of the chefs listed for raising the bar locally, and not being afraid of inspiration.
Gerard…is a rueben sandwich coming out of Veruca?