Comments on: An open letter to Asian Fusion

By: KBO

KBO — Mon, 15 Sep 2008 18:21:23 +0000

Just walked by the new fusion place in the old KoKo spot. Menu is up–looks like some small and large plates. What stuck out: um….fusion t-ravs.

Yep. Bamboo and lemongrass, I believe.

By: Merridith

Merridith — Sun, 14 Sep 2008 20:35:42 +0000

Hmm, very interesting…I have not eaten in a China Grill (New York) for years. I stopped going because of the noise factor. I didn’t know it had become a chain (though I knew they had opened a Vegas branch)! I started going there in about 1982 – I had never seen their style of food (incl. wasabi mashed potatoes) any other place. It would be several years before Vong would open. The country was at the height of what I recall as its first major sushi/Japanese food craze, as well. The China Grill on 53rd & 6th was new and fresh and totally unique for its fusion cusine. Some years later, but way before they were famous except with the Maui locals, I ate at the original Roy’s(now a chain, now overpriced and predictable IMHO) and they were doing interesting fusion but I still considered China Grill to be the first and the best. I can certainly fault them if they have fallen prey to being chainified but you can’t fault them for a lack of originality if everyone else copied their dishes after the fact. Then again, if they have lost their integrity and failed to keep pushing, growing and innovating to keep their edge/originality then I can understand your beef.

As for St. Louis…N/A.

By: Bill Burge

Bill Burge — Sun, 14 Sep 2008 16:41:04 +0000

Actually, China Grill is a pretty good example of my disdain. It’s now a mass chain that covers up truly interesting food with (I guess) interesting sounding food like Wasabi mashed potatoes.

I’m fully aware that there are some that do Asian Fusion really well, but for every restaurant that does it well, there are a hundred that do the glazed salmon dishes with wasabi mashed potatoes, or the shrimp toasts, or the sesame encrusted tuna, or the Thai peanut noodle salads (when has that ever been good except in a Thai restaurant?) or any of the other staples of this style of cuisine that are overdone, boring, and generally pretty damned lackluster.

Point me to an Asian Fusion restaurant worth going to in St. Louis?

By: Merridith

Merridith — Sun, 14 Sep 2008 15:29:57 +0000

Have dinner at one of the mothers of them all: China Grill (53rd & 6th)in New York City. Perhpas then you might change your mind. Only problem is that you cannot hear anything while you are there unless you go at really off hours. Be certain to order the Tempura Sashimi and the Fried Calamari Salad.

By: mikelite

mikelite — Sat, 13 Sep 2008 15:45:50 +0000

a little substance or supporting evidence would be nice.

By: Bill Burge

Bill Burge — Fri, 12 Sep 2008 23:58:07 +0000

I was just hassling you.

In Simple Cuisine, Jean Georges Vongerichten made this comment about fusion cooking that’s always stuck with me. He basically said you needed to have lived in both countries to truly do it well. I thought it was an interesting point and especially so considering how atrocious so much of it can be.

By: Gerard Craft

Gerard Craft — Fri, 12 Sep 2008 22:35:58 +0000

I didn’t say that many people do it well. Just maybe one or two people. I did not bring that up to say that I appreciate all of the incredibly bad fusion restaurants. I just brought it up to give a nod to the couple who do it very well.

By: Bill Burge

Bill Burge — Fri, 12 Sep 2008 21:15:57 +0000

So what kind of ratio would that be of…

a continent of Asian Fusion vs. a continent of Asian Fusion done really well?

By: JonO

JonO — Fri, 12 Sep 2008 21:13:56 +0000

I would add momofuku ssam to that list. Even noodle bar had a terrine on the menu last night.

By: KBO

KBO — Fri, 12 Sep 2008 20:26:39 +0000

Touche.