Cappuccino Revisited

As I’m going to Wild Oats tonight to listen to author Anna Lappe speak on the topic “What Are We Feeding The Kids? (And Ourselves?)” I figured I’d stop into Northwest Coffee and give them another shot.

So I’ve ordered and here I sit awaiting my cappuccino. I’ve been specific about what it is I would like — the traditional 6oz double cappuccino. I have requested that I would like it “for here” which seems to be some sort of secret codeword amongst some shops to break out the china because we’ve got a man that knows what he likes and plans to stay a while.

They’re playing the Where in the World is Carmen San Diego theme song. I swear.

If you’re not familiar, Northwest Coffee has the freshest coffee in the area West of the Mississippi. Formerly buying their coffee from Intelligentsia in Chicago, a few years ago the owner bought himself a Probat roaster, got some training, and got to work roasting his own beans. He roasts every Monday and Thursday in small enough batches that they get through them in a couple days. (that’s literally a shot of all the coffee they have on hand)

I had initially hoped the Intelligentsia thing would bring a certain level of quality to their offerings because they are one of the best roasters in the country. I assumed, if you were going to go out on your own after buying that, there was a standard you weren’t looking to drop below. I’m not sure how it was when they first started, but over the two years I’ve occasionally been buying their beans, while I still consider it the best choice on the West side of the river due to freshness, it’s sometimes roasted a little on the dark side reminding me of a certain green loving mermaid’s brew.

If it’s espresso and cappuccino you’re after, I have had some good ones at the Central West End location. Clayton, however, has always been pretty spotty as to what your cup might turn up — I’ve had a lot of scorched milk and poorly extracted espressos over the years.

As for todays? It’s not a cappuccino but fortunately it at least tastes pretty good.

Sadly there seems to be a real disconnect in the local St. Louis coffee shops where baristas are concerned. The quest for good cappuccino West of the Mississippi continues…

They’re playing Disney music as I leave. Weird.

northwest1
northwest 4
northwest3

Cappuccino vs. Cappuccino

I would like to make an addendum to the list of things I consider myself to be an expert on. To meatloaf and carrot cake I now add the traditional Cappuccino.

Why is it impossible to obtain this in St. Louis?

Good:

capp good

  • notice the six ounce cup
  • notice it’s ceramic
  • notice the way the microfoam blends into the espresso
  • notice (though you can’t) that it’s perfect thirds (espresso, microfoam, steamed milk)
  • notice it’s awesome and not from St. Louis

 

Bad, very bad:

Bad Capp

  • notice the cardboard cup (with no option for ceramic)
  • notice the meringue like foam that is anything but micro
  • notice the almost complete absence of foam mixing with espresso
  • notice (though you can’t) that it’s 2/3 foam
  • notice it’s not awesome and is from St. Louis

I know I’m being a little snotty — a little. The thing is there’s real cappuccino, and then there’s the over-foamed, overly bitter, super-automatic espresso machine, Starbucks-upped fake one that comes in some sort of just shy of a half-gallon size.

These milk based drinks; they are all supposed to be 6oz traditionally. Every one of them. An espresso is 1/3 milk, 1/3 microfoam, 1/3 espresso. And look, I realize there’s the argument that I’m being all non-traditional by drinking cappuccino after noon, but they get the juices flowing — and at least they’re not the 24oz size.

Even worse there’s the 12oz single shot latte. Can you even taste the coffee in that?

I don’t care if the one you want is the weak flavored coffee for beginners. I really don’t. What gets me though, like a shiv in the chest, is that it’s that cruddy one that’s become the norm making it virtually impossible for me to get the real deal without a long drawn out conversation about what it is I want.

I don’t want to give a twenty minute dissertation when I order a traditional cappuccino. I just want a real one.

So please, if you know a barista in St. Louis with the skills to pull off Cappuccino #1, let me know who and where. I’m longing for the good stuff. I’ll travel anywhere — I had it mere hours ago in KC at Broadway Roasting Company, and I walked away a happier and jitterier man then before.

Foam Coffee and Beer

FoamOver on Sauce they mentioned a new space called Foam that’ll feature Coffee and Beer. It’s definitely an interesting idea to ask the general public for their input. I’ll be interested to see how much of that input he actually uses. Here’s to hoping they aim high for the coffee and beer.

Your 2 cents
Mike Glodeck is actively seeking input from community members and future customers as he moves forward with his first commercial venture, Foam. Glodeck aims to renovate the space at 3359 S. Jefferson Ave. (at Cherokee) into a gathering place that will supply patrons with foamy beverages morning (coffeehouse)and night (microbrewery). To put in your two cents on Foam’s design, menu and events, visit http://foam.collectivex.com ; watch for a February 2008 opening.

[saucemagazine.com]

The RFT had some things to say as well.