Slow Food Art of Food Menu

This is why you want to buy tickets for Art of Food

222 Artisan Bakery / Goshen Coffee – Debbie Sultan / Matt Herren

  • 222 Artisan breads in roll form: bacon, brioche, and sun dried tomato olive and feta
  • Goshen-roasted Costa Rican pour-over drip coffee

Bailey’s Chocolate Bar / Rooster – Robin Murphy

  • Fruitland roast beef sandwich with red onion marmalade and herbed Heartland Creamery goat cheese on a housemade roll
  • Bailey’s buttercream chocolate bar cake

An American Place – Joshua Galliano

  • Prairie Grass Farms lamb and foie gras ballotine, apple mustard, chickpea salad, saba

Annie Gunn’s – Lou Rook III

  • Duroc pork belly confit on Companion brioche roll with Atomic horseradish mustard and house made local peach chutney

Araka – Mark Curran

  • Prairie Grass Farms housemade sausages
  • Local heirloom tomato salad

Erato on Main – Kevin Willmann

  • House smoked Guthrie Farms chicken with local vegetable chow chow

Local Harvest Grocery – Clara Moore

  • Housemade hummus served on local cucumber circles and local tomatoes tossed with fresh pesto and served on Companion crostinis

Moxy Bistro – Eric Brenner

  • Duck breast with grilled peaches

Niche – Gerard Craft

  • Slow-roasted Greenwood Farms pork butt sandwiches with brussel sprout slaw on Companion bread

Schlafly Bottleworks – Matt Bessler

  • Schlafy “Gardenworks” beet and Arugula salad
  • Troutdale Farms smoked Trout Mousse with English cucumber cups
  • Bacon-wrapped Hinkebein Hills Farm smoked pork tenderloin with Schlafy pale ale raspberry BBQ sauce

Sidney Street Café – Kevin Nashan

  • Hinkebein Hills Farm smoked pork butt with cornmeal “toast”, Eilerman Brothers peach bbq glaze, Claverach Farm greens and pickled peaches
  • On the Wind Farms watermelon gazpacho with jumbo lump crab

Veruca – Mathew Rice

  • Local peach and lavender trifles

If you were cool…

you would be at Mad Art Gallery this Saturday for Slow Food St. Louis’s annual fund raiser, The Art of Food.

Art of Food

Full event details are at artoffood.org though what you’ll really want to know is who the chefs are:

Debbie Sultan & Matt Herren – 222 Artisan Bakery and Goshen Coffee
Joshua Galliano – An American Place
Lou Rook – Annie Gunn’s
Mark Curran – Araka
David Bailey – Bailey’s Chocolate Bar and Rooster
Kevin Willmann – Erato on Main
Eric Brenner – Moxy Bistro
Gerard CraftNiche
Matt Bessler – Schlafly Bottleworks
Kevin Nashan – Sidney Street Cafe
Mathew Rice – Veruca

and possibly more to come…

Niche Tasting Menu

Niche LogoNeither snow, nor rain, nor heat, nor gloom of night stays these courageous couriers from the swift completion of their appointed rounds.

Of course in the case of Ellie and I we’ll call it sleet; and in place of couriers we’ll call ourselves diners; and instead of appointed rounds there was the fact that after we both got sent home from work early because the weather was bad, I realized we could walk into any restaurant we wanted in St. Louis and have our pick of seats.

And so we went to Niche to have the new tasting menu because hey–Mathew put the kulfi on the menu, and in the back of my mind I believe he did it for me (even if he didn’t really).

Read the rest of this entry »

Veruca Day One

veruca1

A Veruca cheat sheet:

  1. Tropicala cupcakes; if you don’t buy one, I’m done with you.

  2. Currant scones for breakfast rock!

  3. …but financiers and mini cupcakes do not make a balanced breakfast.

When Mathew Rice told me a couple weeks ago that Veruca would be opening last Wednesday, I was disappointed I wouldn’t be able to go on opening day because, living in Florissant, I have no reason to be in Benton Park on a Wednesday. But, I’d forgotten about the Slow Food meeting at the Tap Room, and as the post-work drive downtown went much easier than expected, I did have time to check it out after all.

I bought literally one of everything he had on hand. My hope was that I’d share at the meeting, but with almost twice as many people as usual, I instead shared with Mike, his girlfriend Irene and Ellie only. (Sorry Slow Food people)

Currently cupcakes are the main focus, but Veruca wisely avoids calling themselves a cupcake bakery knowing that just like the fad, places with “cupcake” in their names will one day die. Regular sized cupcakes are $4.00 and minis are a somewhat steep $1.50.

Day one, Mathew is serving four:

Veruca 1

Eggnog Spice, Tropicala, Peanut Butter Cup, Red Velvet (clockwise from the upper left).

The Tropicala was by far the favorite. It’s a toasted coconut yellow cake stuffed with lime curd (which Mathew stresses “goes all the way down”) and a passion fruit buttercream. If you’re a fan of tart desserts like lemon tarts (hah!) or key lime pie, I don’t see how you couldn’t love this too because it’s incredibly moist, incredibly tart, and incredibly delicious. It’s easily the best of the kicked-up cupcakes I’ve had in St. Louis bakeries, and I’m not just saying that because I like Mathew (though I do).

The other unusual flavor was the eggnog spice which consisted of a crystallized ginger spice cake and eggnog buttercream. I know this because Mathew writes what’s in the boxes, on the boxes, by hand…or at least he did for me.

veruca2

Ellie wouldn’t eat it because she doesn’t like eggnog, but Mike and I really dug it. We both loved the flavor of the cake which was, well, spicy; kind of like a kicked up coffeecake.

As a side note, I’d bought two Eggnogs as it was the one I’d most wanted to try, and I can tell you it held up nicely when I ate it a second time after work the following day. The only thing that had altered slightly was the buttercream, which was a little crisp, but that’s kind of unavoidable in the world of day old cupcakes.

The red velvet, Mathew tells me, is a recipe his Mom and Grandmother used to make. He really lit up when he told me this because he thinks it’s the best red velvet cake he’s ever had, and he seems especially proud of it. I can’t fairly comment as I’m not a red velvet man, but it’s Mike’s favorite cake, and while I was going to let him comment on it, I’m apparently going to have to buy another one for him because he was apparently too many Schlafly’s in to remember anything beyond “I enjoyed it.”

For me, it was the only one that was maybe a touch dry. Mathew had snuck a couple minis into my solo eggnog box, however, and when I ate them with breakfast the next day; it was awesome because it was the perfect combination of cake to buttercream ensuring moisture.

The Peanut Butter Cup was pretty straightforward: chocolate cake, peanut butter buttercream. It was good, but my favorite of this flavor combo is still The Cupcakery’s because it was so overwhelmingly peanut-buttery, and I love peanut butter.

Besides cupcakes, and a full lineup of espresso drinks courtesy of their Rancilio and Chauvin, Veruca is also rocking out breakfast pastries; delicious breakfast pastries that left me thinking I had no need for silly cupcakes.

Veruca 2

Financier w/ Cranberry Jam, Cranberry Spice Muffin, Currant Scone (clockwise from the upper left).

The currant scone is the best I’ve ever had from a bakery.

What I love about a good scone is the way that mostly, it’s kind of savory, but with subtle sweetness that lingers in the background just enough to make you think “is there sugar in this?” and realize that yes there is rather than something like the Bread Company version that leaves you thinking “whoa, there’s a lot of sugar in this!”

Basically, if I wanted a cake, I’d buy a cake, and I find most scones to be too moist, too dry, too sweet, or too cakey. This one fell perfectly in the middle of all those grievances meaning that now, when I want a real scone, I finally know where I can get one.

Skipping my usual breakfast of Optimum Power cereal, the following morning I polished off the scone along with the financier, the mini-cupcakes and the muffin.

It was a solid financier for sure, but overall it’s not one of my favorite desserts because I find it a bit sweet for my tastes (especially at 6AM). I loved the cranberry jam though because, like the scone, it wasn’t overwhelmingly sweet which meant the true tartness of the cranberries came through. Also, its flavor wasn’t cluttered up with the unnecessary citrus that seems to make its way into virtually anything with cranberries.

Veruca is sure to be a hit, so if you find yourself in the neighborhood, remember: Tropicala, currant scone, careful with breakfast.

Note: As always, please keep in mind that while I believe my opinion to be correct, there are some establishments that I am friendly enough with that my opinion is personally biased. This is one.